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Printer stopping multiple times on the same place (1 reply)

September 27, 2018, 4:20 am
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Hi all,

I did build my own delta 3d printer and am currently finetuning and I continuously bump into a problem.
When I try to print something the extruder sometimes stops moving completely. It won’t continue after waiting.
Remarkable is that the printer stops multiple times at the same place. I tried switching out the USB for 3 different SD-cards, this didn’t solve the problem but changed it. With the first sd card it did stop at a different place and with the 3rd it stopped at the same place as the USB again.
I looked into the G-Code but can’t find anything that could cause this problem.
I tried reslicing before and this can fix the problem (not always).
When I try to print directly from my slicer to the printer I didn’t encounter this problem so far.


Does anybody know what can cause the printer to stop mid print? I think it is caused by one of the following but feel free to give other suggestions.
The hotend cools down. The display however is not updating this change in temperature when the printer stopped I quickly turned off the printer and switched it back on again. The hotend was only 169 degrees when the printer was on again. When I do the same thing when the printer is still printing I do read out a temperature of around 195 degrees. (I print on 205)
Communication between the LCD display and the controller. As said above the display does not update the hotend temperature. Can this be possible because of losing connection between the display and the controller? If this happens it can explain why the printer stops printing because it can not reach it’s SD card anymore.

Both suggestions don’t explain why the printer stops on the same spot multiple times in a row, so feel free to suggest other problems.

Kind regards,
Rik

PS. I use Smoothieware and Simplify3d
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Inconsistent Z-Axis surface defect on a Delta (no replies)

September 27, 2018, 1:47 am
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As the title says, I noticed some very obvious side-surface defect on my prints with my Kossel Mini. Here are a few pictures of a part I printed in PLA at 210C with a 60C Bed.

[attachment 107235 IMG_20180927_095348.jpg][attachment 107236 IMG_20180927_095331.jpg]

As far as I can tell, this looks like Z-banding to me. Can anyone here confirm? I searched around for this issue in many threads and all of them showed a consistent pattern of bands. Maybe its just my untrained eye, but I cant figure out any patterns in the defects in my print.

[attachment 107237 IMG_20180927_095552.jpg]

This is the corner view of the same print, and on zooming in, you can see that the edge is almost wave-like and not completely square as it should be.

This is visible only when I do large prints, smaller prints(like a 20mm cube, for instance) come out fine. I have tried printing at lower and higher temperatures to no luck. I printed out a single wall cube to test for over-extrusion/under-extrusion, but that too came out fine and the layers were held together just fine. I have capped my feedrates at 100mm/s and Acceleration at 250, but I couldnt notice any change in the prints.
I have already installed vibration dampers on my motors and my printer is very quiet, (the loudest noise being the hotend cooling fan!)so I'm skeptical that this is due to vibrations from steppers. But at this point any suggestions are welcome.


Some things about my setup, maybe useful for debugging this problem:

Printer: Kossel Mini
Control: Arduino with Ramps
Steppers: Nema17 with A4988 drivers(My motors get quite warm at about 60C when used continuously, I always attributed it to the vibration dampers insulating the heat from the motor)
Hotend: E3D V6
HeatBed: 12V MK3 Aluminium Bed
Power Supply: PC SMPS with 24A on the 12V rail
Filament: Flashforge PLA (usually print this at 210C Hotend, 60C Bed)
Slicer: Slic3r
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Selfie to Halloween-frown App? (no replies)

September 27, 2018, 5:54 am
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I know that you can generate emoticons from selfies, but how about a Monster-frown?
With such a picture ( eg. from your mother_in_law ) you could make 3D stencil for customises pumpkins and such...


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MDF Parts wanted (1 reply)

September 28, 2018, 4:21 am
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Hi,

I've got an old Mendel (Prism style) which I haven't used for a while. I'd like to refurb it by getting MDF or Dibond panels for it.

Can anyone supply these? (I'll post in wanted also.)

regards

Terry Kidd
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Mendel90 MDF parts (no replies)

September 27, 2018, 7:40 am
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Hi,

I've got an old Mendel (Prism style) which I haven't used for a while. I'd like to refurb it by getting MDF or Dibond panels for it.

Can anyone supply these?

regards

Terry Kidd
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Problems in fusing internal structure to thin walled skin (10 replies)

September 28, 2018, 5:05 am
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I am trying to create a wing section using a single perimeter skin and a lattice of ribs inside. The problem I have is getting the ribs to fuse to the inside of the skin, without being visible on the outside.

I have attached to screenshots showing a section of the wing. If I leave a gap of 0.1 mm between the ribs and the inner surface of the skin the ribs do not fuse well to the skin. If this gap is reduced to 0.05 mm the ribs fuse to the skin but create lines on the outer surface of the skin which affect the surface finish. I know that it is possible to have the ribs fuse with a smooth outer surface as 3dlabprints manage to do this, but I do not know the slic3r setting to get around my problem.

I would be grateful for any help you can give.

I am using a Prusa I3 MK2 printer and Slic3r Prusa edition Version 1.39.1 with a nozzle diameter of 0.4 mm.
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Duet WiFi & dual Z motors (8 replies)

September 28, 2018, 2:10 am
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Upgrading my Z1 (Anet A8 clone) with a Duet WiFi, some new steppers and other bits.

So far have got X & Y homing OK but struggling with Z axis, but still working that out myself but may be back for some help if I still struggle.

Main question though is in regards to the dual Z stepper motors, when homing X or Y it moves the Z axis slightly by the motors don't seem to move together, one moves then the other resulting in a very clunky / grindy movement flexing the X axis, when finished however it is back to straight, is this normal?

With the cheapie shipped board they moved together but know the duet runs them in series would this cause that? (Probably a very stupid question but done very little research on the difference)
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Mehrfarben/Material Druck (2 replies)

September 27, 2018, 11:21 am
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Hallo zusammen,
beim Thema Druck mit unterschiedlichen Materialien oder Farben stelle ich mir immer wieder die Frage, ob noch niemand dabei ist bei der Software etwas zu dem Thema zu machen.
Ich persönlich zeichne mit Solidworks und würde es verdammt fein finden, wenn ich in Simplify oder ähnlichem meinen Text als File B z.B. einfach in eine Tasche von File B einlegen könnte. Und wenn das Ganze dann z.B. genauso wie auch in SolidWorks mit Beziehungen platziert werden könnte…….
Hat da vielleicht jemand ne Idee ob bald sowas rauskommen, oder ob irgendwo daran gearbeitet wird?
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Dopo l'auto livellamento l'asse z si alza e stampa a vuoto (4 replies)

September 28, 2018, 4:28 am
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Mi presento:
mi chiamo filippo scrivo in questo forum perchè i precedenti avevano un tempo di risposta eccessivo se non assente.Sono un principiante che in un modo o nell'altro
grazie a internet riesce a far qualcosina.
Comunque ho una geetech i3 pro b con la gt2560 rev a. da un mesetto ho deciso di montare un bltouch alla mia stampante vista la mia incapacità di livellare bene il piatto.Dopo tonnellate di problemi sono riuscito a montarlo normalmente sembrava andare ma in fase di stampa capitava che alcuni "sondaggi" non andavano a buon fine nonostante a mano andavano bene .Cercando su internet ho letto che aggiornando il firmware si sarebbe risolto il problema e dopo un problema con lcd2004 e tra i pin (il mio vecchio firmware era parecchio vecchio perciò ho dovuto reimparare a settarlo per il bltouch).Comunque alla fine funziona, ma oggi dopo aver tentato di stampare la prima volta,( il probing (una griglia di 9 punti) va perfettamente ma dopo aver fatto l'ultimo punto si alza e incomincia a stampare con una enorme distanza dal piatto.Dopo aver tentato di far partire il bltouch per un totale di un mese a risolvere problemi ho perso la pazienza
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Salve a tutti! (1 reply)

September 27, 2018, 11:16 am
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Mi chiamo filippo sono abbastanza nuovo nel mondo della stampa (circa un annetto) ho una geetech i3 pro b con scheda madre gt2560 rev a ,per il marlin 1.1.8 per ora.
Nessuno mi ha insegnato niente quindi ho fatto un pò come potevo con l'aiuto di internet e la mia portanza verso queste cose , infatti la mia stampante per i collegamenti non ha un minimo di saldatura e tutti i cavi sono intrecciati e chiusi con schotch di carta
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Suche Teile P3steel TE MK2 (1 reply)

September 28, 2018, 6:22 am
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Moin,
Ich bin endlich wieder im Lande und suche auf diesem Wege Teile für ein P3steel TE MK2
Elektrik, Hotend, Heizbett, Stepper sowie Ramen und Schrauben sollte ich soweit komplett hier liegen haben.
Was mir fehlt sind die sind die Kugelager, Wellen, Kupplungen, Linearlager, Sinterbuchsen, Rändelmuttern m5 Gewindestange ,Silikondämpfer, Verhüteri und Lüfter.

Das, was mir jetzt so auf den ersten Blick ins Auge gestoßen ist
  • 2 x Linearwelle H6 8mm 350
  • 2 x Linearwelle H6 8mm 390
  • 2 x Linearwelle H6 8mm 330
  • Gewindestange M5 Edelstahl
  • 2 x Messingmutter M5
  • 8 x Sinterbronze buchse 12/12/8mm
  • 2 x Linearlager LM8UU
  • 4 x Silikondämpfer
  • 1 x Silikon-Verhüterli fürs Hotend
  • 2 x Rändelmutter M5
  • 3 x Kugellager 625ZZ
  • 1 x Kugellager 608ZZ
  • 2 x Flanschlager MF 126
  • 2 x UNITEDPRO B3510X05B Radiallüfter
  • 2 x Kupplungen 5/5 mm
  • Druckplatte Pertinax oder FR4 (hätte hier aber zur not auch Glasplatte und PEI Folie)
  • Div. Stecker und Buchsen (DuPoint, PSK)
Ich hoffe das war alles.
Die Druckteile evtl. noch, falls sie noch irgendwo Rumstauben und ich sie günstig erwerben kann. Ansonsten werde ich mich mal selbst dran versuchen.


Ich weiß kostet alles nicht die Welt und ist auch schnell Bestellt.
Da aber bestimmt bei euch davon bestimmt einiges, wenn nicht sogar alles davon rumliegt, wollte ich vorher erstmal in die Runde Fragen.
Auch sind die Versandkosten nicht ohne, da man bei etlichen Shops bestellen muß.

LG Micha
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Neu im 3D Druck - Frage zu ABL und Sensor (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 3:38 am
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Hallo,
erstmal möchte ich mich kurz vorstellen: Ich heiße Markus, bin 45 Jahre alt und komme aus Ludwigshafen am Rhein.
Vor drei Wochen fing ich an, mich mit dem Thema 3D Druck zu beschäftigen … und irgendwie hat mich das in seinen Bann gezogen
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Strange lumpiness after print is about 1cm high (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 4:23 am
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I have a home-made Prusa 2 which has been printing fine for years. I recently dusted it off and since it was in an unknown state I reflashed it with the latest Marlin. The electronics is RAMPS 1.4 and all seems fine. I printed out thin wall and 50mm cube no problems (3mm ABS), but when I print larger pieces it starts getting very lumpy after around 12mm height. Specifically it shows on some wall sides but not others. I have tried printing with plenty layer cooling fan and no fan, different bed heating, cool ABS and hot ABS, I have checked the extruder for skipping stepper and jamming filament all with no change. It's not simply the height triggering a dodgy connection because the 50mm cube prints perfectly.

I have printed many tens of Kg of filament over the years but never seen this, neither can I see it in any of the many troubleshooting guides online.

Any suggestions very welcome indeed!

Now, if I can only attach these images right... The tall cube is ok, the other thing is borked.

Thanks,
Phil
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Creatly 3D Ender 3 (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 5:29 am
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Ciao a tutti, da GB ricevo una mail che mi segnala la stampante Crealty 3D Ender 3, ho trovato un paio di recensioni in video, che ne parlano bene. Qualcuno di Voi, possessore della stessa, può darmi la sua "recensione"?
Grazie
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Homing Z Axis (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 5:50 am
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Got my Z axis moving properly now but for some reason will not home.

I have normal mechanical stop switches on X and Y and they both home fine.

If I try to Home Z it does the lift, goes to probing point and then comes up...

G28 Z

Error: G0/G1: insufficient axes homed

(X and Y are showing as blue in web panel)

Below is my homez.g

; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Sep 26 2018 11:15:59 GMT+0100 (GMT Daylight Time)
G91              ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F6000 S2   ; lift Z relative to current position
G90              ; absolute positioning
G1 X20 Y20 F6000 ; go to first probe point
G30              ; home Z by probing the bed

; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
;G91             ; relative positioning
;G1 S2 Z5 F100   ; lift Z relative to current position
;G90             ; absolute positioning
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Extruder Fan Works Intermittently (2 replies)

September 28, 2018, 1:07 pm
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The extruder fan on my printer used to work fine. Recently,it does not always come on when it is supposed to, and I have been getting heat creep into my extruder, gumming things up and stopping printing/extrusion. I explored this more using manual controls in Repetier and closely monitoring the fan. Usually when I ask the fan to turn on (at about 35%), I can see the fan blade move about 5mm and then stop, and it whines. If I turn it off and on and off and on and off and on, it might finally start up. If I change to a different % (say 40%), it will sometimes start.

1) What might be the problem and a solution?

2) Is there another way to help insulate my extruder from the heat creep so I don’t have to keep an eagle eye on my fan and printer every minute?

Thank you.
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Duet 3 demo at TCT (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 7:14 am
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For those of you who haven't already seen it:

[www.youtube.com]

This is not a replacement for the existing Duet 2 series of controller boards, it's a top-of-the-range controller for OEMs and others with special requirements. More info at [www.duet3d.com].
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Suche: USB Kabel / Pinout Tester (2 replies)

September 28, 2018, 10:20 am
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Hallo Leute.

Ich bin aktuell auf einen USB Kabeltester.

Es gibt ja zu hauf Tester die zig Features haben, Spannung, Leistung, Oszilloskop ect.
Was ich aber bei keinem einzigen gefunden habe ist einer mit dem man einfach messen kann ob bzw welche Pins zb bei einem USB Anschluss defekt sind, und ob ein Pinout überhaupt die richtig ist (zb bei selbst gebauten Kabeln/elektroniken).

Ist jemandem zufällig ein Gerät über den weg gelaufen welches das kann ?

mfg Chri
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BLtouch Y axis home help (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 12:25 pm
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Hi,

I've got my Bltouch setup and working, however I need help telling Marlin to home the y axis further up. Right now I have my z probe mounted about 50 mm in front of the hot end, when I home x and y the bed goes all the way back to 0 but when the z axis lowers the probe the bed is too far back so there's nothing for the probe to contact.

How do I configure Marlin so the bed doesn't start all the way back?
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Consigli per l'autocostruzione di una stampante e lasagne alla camomilla.. :D (no replies)

September 28, 2018, 9:17 pm
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Come accennato in precedenza in questo post [reprap.org] sto ridestinando i pezzi di una stampante DELTA cinese per la costruzione di una vecchia, buona e genuina cartesiana nella speranza di dire addio per sempre a tutti i grattacapi tipici delle delta.. 8-)

Solo che adesso, dopo aver terminato le fasi di progettazione tridimensionale per un 90% abbondante, stanno iniziando a venirmi in mente più idee malsane del solito, ovvero:

  1. Dopo aver trascorso interi anni a far il contorsionista per calibrare il piatto di una daVinci 1.0A, pensavo, perchè non calibrarlo con l'ausilio di un semplice joystick? Proprio come avviene con gli specchietti delle auto.. 8-)
    Avrei già uno di questi motori [www.ebay.it] e con il giusto amperaggio hanno una coppia più che sufficiente per avvitare/svitare le tre viti su cui poggerà il piatto.
    Inoltre, hanno un costo irrisorio, grazie al riduttore integrato sarà possibile regolare l'inclinazione con una precisione pressoché millesimale e le eventuali compensazioni potranno avvenire in contemporanea sui tre supporti del piatto permettendo così di effettuare regolazioni quasi "impossibili" se fatte a mano.. 8-)
    Che ne dite? Ciò potrebbe risultare futile? No, perché attualmente le stampanti hanno di tutto: cambio utensile automatico, possono fresare, tagliare con il laser, probe per l'auto-livellamento, sistemi di telemetria e chi più ne ha e più ne metta, ma veramente nessuno aveva mai pensato a ciò? :S
  2. Considerando che ultimamente sembra quasi andare "di moda" tenere l'elettronica completamente separata dal corpo macchina, avrei adocchiato questi due progetti:
    [www.thingiverse.com]
    [www.thingiverse.com]
    Solo che per eseguire un lavoro pulito saranno necessari dei connettori "da pannello" con sufficienti pin e capaci di supportare amperaggi abbastanza alti per il piatto, gli estrusori e i motori.. Idee sulla scelta degli stessi? 8-)
  3. Laser: So già che non lo userò molto, ma allo stesso tempo potrei necessitare di tagliare o incidere loghi su del compensato da pochi millimetri oppure semplicemente per farvi delle PCB senza incorrere nei problemi tipici delle basette sottoesposte al bromografo..
    Quindi, potenza o tipo di laser consigliato per far ciò? :)-D
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